The first half of the 1850s were a time of great changes in fashion. The shape of the bodice and skirts remained the same but there were some minor adjustments. For instance, the tight sleeves of the previous decade gave way to wide sleeves, not as large as the Romantic Era, but loose which allowed for better mobility. These wider sleeves are often referred to as "pagoda." The use of separate pieces also became a popular choice with women, ensembles would be a set consisting of a skirt, bodice, and jacket, or a more reviling bodice for evening engagements.
In the latter half of the decade, the use of cage crinoline would become extremely popular, allowing the size of skirts to increase dramatically. The new technology also enabled women to wear heavier dresses as the cage distributed the weight of the fabric to the hips and corset. The ability to add more fabric to garments promoted the tiered look often associated with the skirts of the 1850s. |
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As the padding at the back of day dresses became bigger, the train also grew as the skirt circumference decreased. The fabric used in the later 1860s was still the same amount used with the crinoline but was instead pulled up on the sides with bows and other ornamentation to create a slim front and shelf-like space at the back. By the mid 1870s, the bustle fell out of favor as quickly as it appeared and the round skirt was again preferred.
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The bustle was used in some styles towards the end of the century but fashion that remained was the tight fit with high collars. The large gigot sleeves of the 1830s are visbile again but the shoulders are covered and only exposed in evening dresses, and rarely seen until the last five years of the 1890s. Black began to be acceptable as an evening gown color, as it had only been appropriate as a mourning color in the Victorian Era. The fashions at this time emphasized ornate beading and lace, common decoration on haute couture gowns which very desirable to the upper-class. Charles Frederick Worth and his fashion house were very successful during this time and his designs and name were considered the most fashionable in the Late Victoria Era.
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